Waydoo Evo Maintenance Guide l Mid-Term E-Foil Care Guide

Waydoo Evo Maintenance (After a Few Months) | Mid-Term E-Foil Care Guide

After a few months on the water, your Waydoo Evo needs more than a rinse. Watch the walkthrough, then follow the step-by-step guide below. These tips also apply to Lift, Flite, and other modern e-foils.

Chris walks through the process in real time: mast removal, prop/guard teardown, wing bolts, and connector care.

Salt, vibration, and repeated setup start wearing on hidden parts you don’t always see. Mid-term maintenance catches that wear before it becomes real damage. Use this page as your quick reference for safe disassembly, where to use silicone vs. marine grease, spotting early corrosion, and the common mistakes to avoid.

Miami riders know it best: warm Biscayne Bay water and year-round salt exposure speed up wear compared to inland lakes. Stay on top of these checks every couple of months and your board will last seasons longer.

Want a full, evergreen checklist that covers after every ride + every few months? Open the Complete E-Foil Maintenance Checklist →

Why Does Mid-Term Maintenance Matter for Your E-Foil?

Every ride leaves salt crystals inside the mast, thins grease on screws, and dulls the protective layer on connectors. A light re-grease and a careful inspection every couple of months extends the life of your motor, wings, and battery connections. In Miami’s warm, salty water, this interval matters even more than on inland lakes.

How Often Should You Perform Deeper Maintenance?

  • Frequent saltwater (3–5x/week): every ~2 months
  • Moderate use (few times/month): every 3–4 months
  • Occasional/freshwater: at least twice per season

Don’t over-disassemble: taking the mast off too often can wear connectors. This is a periodic checkup, not a daily routine.

For a deeper dive into how to protect your battery, check out our guide on how to store your Waydoo battery

How to Safely Remove the Mast from the Motor

Pulling the mast off your Waydoo Evo is one of the bigger steps in mid-term maintenance. You don’t need to do it often, over-disassembly can actually wear out the connectors

  1. Remove screws.  Start by taking out the screws that connect the mast to the motor base. Keep them in a clean, dry spot so you don’t lose any hardware.
  2. Ease the mast out. Give the mast a steady pull to separate it from the motor. Don’t rush it — the connectors inside are sturdy, but forcing them can cause damage.
  3. Inspect connection point. Look for grit, corrosion, grease condition.
  4. Apply fresh silicone grease. Add a light coat of silicone grease to the electrical connectors. This protects against moisture and helps maintain clean contact.
  5. Add marine grease to screws. Before reassembly, coat the screws with marine grease. This keeps threads from corroding and makes removal easier next time.
  6. Reinstall carefully. Line the mast back up with the motor, press it in smoothly, and replace the screws. A firm snug fit is enough, no need to crank them down hard

What Parts to Greece and Why

Grease is what keeps your e-foil hardware smooth, protected, and easy to service later. After a few months, the factory grease starts to thin out, so it’s worth refreshing key points.

Here’s where to focus:

1. Electrical connectors (use silicone grease).
A light coat on the mast-to-motor connectors protects against salt and ensures solid electrical contact. Silicone grease is non-conductive and safe for electronics.

2. Screws and bolts (use marine grease).
 Coat the mast screws, prop screws, and fuselage bolts with marine grease. This prevents corrosion, keeps threads from seizing, and makes future disassembly much easier.

3. Pro guard and cone harware. 
Chris applies marine grease anywhere there’s exposed metal. When you take apart the prop guard and cone, hit those screws and pins too. Remember — the prop cone loosens opposite (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty).

4. Wings and fuselage. 
Before reinstalling your front and tail wings, add a dab of marine grease to the bolt threads and the contact points. This reduces friction and keeps everything locked in without over-tightening.

Chris’s tip: “Pretty much anywhere you see metal, add grease.” Just don’t overdo it — you want a thin protective layer, not gobs of grease attracting sand and grit.

Thin, even film is enough. Too much grease attracts grit and sand.

And if something doesn’t look right, or you’d rather not figure it out alone, Chris at E-Foil Miami is always just a call away.

What to Check for Corrosion in the Prop Assembly

The prop assembly is one of the first places corrosion shows up. Saltwater sits around the prop pin, screws, and guard, and even a little buildup can make removal tough down the line. Every couple of months, it’s worth breaking it apart and re-greasing.
  1. Remove the guard: Twist it off by spinning to the right. It’s the opposite direction you’d expect: righty-loosey, lefty-tighty.
  2. Take off the cone: Use the key or an Allen tool to stop the prop from spinning and loosen the cone. Remember: this one goes left to loosen.
  3. Pull the prop & pin: Slide the prop off and check the pin underneath. If the pin sticks, tap it gently to knock it out. Corrosion often starts here first.
  4. Inspect: Look for any green, white, or rough spots on the pin, cone, or screw heads. A little surface corrosion is common and easy to clean off at this stage.
  5. Apply fresh grease: Coat the pin, screws, and contact areas with marine grease before putting everything back together. This keeps metal surfaces protected and makes the next teardown easier.
  6. Reinstall with care: Line the prop back up with the pin, slide the cone on, and snug it down. No need to overtighten, just secure enough to hold.

Reminder: prop cone threads opposite—“lefty tighty.”

How to Clean & Re-Grease Your Wings

Your front and tail wings take a beating every session. Even if they look clean on the outside, salt and sand settle around the screws and fuselage. Every few months, it’s worth taking them off, giving them a quick check, and re-greasing the hardware.

Here’s how to do it:

  1. Remove front and tail wings with the correct Allen keys.
  2. Clean mating surfaces; check for grit, scratches, or early corrosion.
  3. Apply marine grease to threads and metal inserts.
  4. Reinstall snug—avoid over-torque that can stress inserts.

Chris’s approach here is simple: grease anything metal, keep it snug, and check it again in a few months. It’s quick, easy, and saves you from stuck hardware or worn-out wings down the road.

Why Your Battery Connection Needs Special Attention

  • Inspect pins, release buttons, and contact rings for green/white/chalky residue.
  • Apply a light coat of silicone grease to all metal contacts & buttons.
  • Always dry completely before charging—damp charging damages packs.

Why Your Battery Connection Needs Special Attention

Your battery is the most important and most expensive part of your e-foil. It also happens to be one of the most vulnerable spots for corrosion. The metal pins, buttons, and connectors are exposed every time you install or remove it, and after a few months of riding they need fresh protection.

Here’s how to keep your battery connection healthy:

1. Check all metal surfaces. Look closely at the pins, the release buttons, and the contact ring. Any sign of green, white, or chalky buildup is early corrosion.

2. Apply silicone grease. Use a thin layer on all the metal connectors and buttons. Silicone grease protects the contacts without interfering with performance.

3. Don’t overdo it. A little goes a long way. Too much grease just attracts dust and grit.

4. Dry before charging. Even with grease applied, always make sure the battery connection area is completely dry before plugging it in. Charging while damp is one of the fastest ways to damage your pack.

Chris keeps it simple: “Anything metal gets a little grease.” Following this habit every couple of months will keep your battery running smooth and protect the most expensive part of your setup.

For step-by-step storage and charging tips, check out our dedicated guide on how to store your Waydoo battery. Pair it with this mid-term checklist for complete battery care.

Common Mistakes to Avoid During Mid-Term Maintenance

Mid-term maintenance is simple once you know the steps, but a few common mistakes can undo your hard work or even cause extra wear. Here’s what to avoid:

Taking the mast off too often can wear out the connectors. Stick to every couple of months — not every ride.

2. Skipping grease on screws and pins. Saltwater eats hardware fast. If you forget marine grease on screws, bolts, and the prop pin, you’ll fight stuck parts later.

3. Using the wrong type of grease. Silicone grease is for electrical connectors, marine grease is for metal screws and fittings. Mixing them up won’t give you the protection you need.

4. Over-tightening hardware. Cranking screws too hard can strip threads or stress inserts. Snug is enough, let the grease do the work.

5. Ignoring early corrosion. A little green or white buildup might not look serious, but it’s the first warning sign. Clean it, re-grease, and keep riding with confidence.

Need a second set of eyes?

If something doesn’t look right or you’d rather not figure it out alone, Chris at E-Foil Miami can help.


Frequently Asked Questions


Can I do Waydoo Evo maintenance myself?

Yes. With the right tools and steps, basic maintenance is DIY-friendly. This page and the video cover everything you need. If you’re unsure, reach out for advice.

How do I know if my e-foil has corrosion?

Look for green, white, or chalky buildup on pins, screws, or connection points. Early corrosion is easy to clean and re-grease if you catch it right away.

What grease should I use on my e-foil?
  • Silicone grease on electrical connectors and battery pins.
  • Marine-grade grease on screws, prop hardware, mast bolts, and wing fittings.
How often should I check my battery connections?

Every couple of months if you ride saltwater often. Always dry fully before charging. See our battery storage & charging guides for long-term tips.